Introduction
Chlorine is more than just a sanitizer; it's a disinfectant and an oxidizer. Understanding the different types of chlorine and how they work can make a world of difference in your pool maintenance game.
Sanitizer:
Kills and prevents bacteria and algae.
Maintains long-term cleanliness.
Disinfectant:
Eliminates all forms of bacteria and viruses.
Acts quickly but doesn't provide long-lasting protection.
Oxidizer:
Removes organic material from water.
"Burns off" contaminants like sweat, urine, and lotions.
Before diving in, you might also find these related posts useful:
Florida Regulations
In Florida, the primary delivery source for pool chemicals must be an operational automatic feeder approved by the National Sanitation Foundation.
Manual feeding of chemicals directly to the pool is allowed but only as a supplemental backup, and you must wait an hour before allowing swimmers back into the pool.
Can I Mix Chlorine Types?
Hold your horses! NO!
Mixing different types of chlorine is a big no-no. Why? Because when you mix them, you're inviting a chemical reaction that could result in dangerous gases or even an explosion. Each type of chlorine has its own unique properties, pH levels, and safety hazards. Mixing them can not only be hazardous but also counterproductive, as they could cancel each other out or create unwanted byproducts.
If you're considering switching from one type of chlorine to another, it's crucial to completely empty your feeder or dispensing system and give it a thorough cleaning before adding the new type. Always consult the manufacturer's guidelines or a pool care professional when making such changes.
The MOST COMMON Chlorine Types
Liquid Chlorine (Sodium Hypochlorite, Bleach)
Usually Comes As Liquid
pH Impact: 13 pH
Delivery System: Mechanical feeding pump or venturi system
Cal Hypo (Calcium Hypochlorite)
Usually Comes As Tablet
pH Impact: 12 pH
Delivery System: Special feeder to dissolve and dilute the chlorine
Stabilized Chlorine (Tri-Chlor)
Usually Comes As Solid Tablet
pH Impact: 2.8-3.0 pH
Delivery System: Special feeder to dissolve and dilute the chlorine
Stabilized chlorine, often known as Tri Chlor, comes with a built-in stabilizer. Now, what does a stabilizer do? It acts like sunscreen for your chlorine, protecting it from the sun's UV rays, which can quickly deplete chlorine levels. However, it's crucial to understand that stabilizer by itself is not a sanitizer, disinfectant, or oxidizer.
Too much stabilizer can reduce chlorine's effectiveness, leading to issues like algae growth. So, while stabilized chlorine offers the benefit of longevity in sunlight, the stabilizer component is not a stand-alone solution for pool care.
Please note stabilized chlorine can not be used on a spa or splashpad in florida
QUICK VIEW COMPARISON TABLE
Sodium Hypochlorite | Calcium Hypochlorite | Stabilized Chlorine | |
|---|---|---|---|
Usually Comes As | Liquid | Solid Tablet | Solid Tablet |
Also Known As | Liquid Chlorine, Bleach | Cal Hypo | Tri Chlor |
pH Impact (pH Level) | Raises (11-13 pH) | Raises (10-12 pH) | Lowers (2-3 pH) |
Chlorine Concentration | 10-12% | 65-75% | 90% |
Safety Hazards | Corrosive, fumes can be harmful | Corrosive, can combust if mixed with organic material | Harmful if ingested, corrosive |
Delivery System | Mechanical Pump | A special feeder container required | A special feeder container required |
Pros 1 | Widely Available | High chlorine content | Slow-dissolving |
Pros 2 | Generally cheaper | Adds calcium to water | Stabilized |
Pros 3 | Faster to add manually to pools | Easier to transport than bleach | Easier to transport than bleach |
Cons 1 | Short shelf life | Can cause scaling | Can cause low pH |
Cons 2 | Requires repairs to a mechanical feeding pump or venturi system | Calcium build-up may need to be removed from filters | High levels of stabilizer reduce the effectiveness of chlorine >30ppm |
Cons 3 | Requires more acid to maintain the ideal range of 7.4-7.6 pH | Tablet feeder can get clogged and needs cleaning | Chlorine strength is high but quantity is reduced with the addition of a stabilizer |
What About Salt?
Salt: While salt itself isn't a sanitizer, saltwater generators convert salt into a chlorine compound. However, in Florida, commercial saltwater pools are required to have a secondary chlorine backup, which is typically one of the three common types mentioned in this post.
Honorable Mentions
These types are not as common, usually due to availability, cost, and effectiveness.
Di-Chlor: Not commonly used in commercial pools in Florida due to higher cost and lower chlorine concentration.
Chlorine Gas: Declined in usage due to safety concerns related to chlorine gas tank leakage.
Biguanide: Often used in spas; less effective against certain types of algae and bacteria.
Bromine: Used in hot tubs and indoor pools; less affected by temperature and pH but more expensive.
Lithium Hypochlorite: Quick-dissolving but generally more expensive and less readily available.
Potassium Monopersulfate: A non-chlorine oxidizer that's great for "shocking" the pool but doesn't sanitize or disinfect.
How Each Type Affects Pool Chemistry
Water Chemistry Factors | Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine, Bleach) | Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo) | Stabilized Chlorine (Tri Chlor) |
|---|---|---|---|
Alkalinity | Minimal impact (Least) | Raises (Most) | Lowers |
pH | Raises Significantly | Raises Moderately | Lowers |
Chlorine Into Pool Absorption Rate | Faster | Moderate | Slower |
Stabilizer | None | None | Adds |
Calcium Hardness | None | Increases | None |
TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) | Raises (Least) | Raises (Most) | Raises |
What About Granular Chlorine—The "Shocking" Truth
Hold onto your pool noodles, folks! Granular chlorine isn't your everyday chlorine; it's the special ops of pool care. 🕶️💥
The Good Stuff:
Supplemental Powerhouse: Granular chlorine is like the protein shake of your regular chlorine diet. It boosts your pool's chlorine levels when they're lagging due to an expected high bathing load
Algae-B-Gone: Got algae? Granular chlorine is your algae assassin. Unlike liquid bleach, which disperses quickly, granules can be placed directly on top of pool floor algae. This increases contact time, making it more effective at eliminating those pesky green invaders.
The Pro Tips:
Dissolve First: Ideally, you should dissolve the granules in water before adding them to the pool. Why? Because the granules themselves may take hours to dissolve. So, mix 'em up in a bucket first for quicker action.
Know Your Type: Not all granular chlorine is created equal. Some are Tri-Chlor based, and others are Cal Hypo based. The difference? Tri-Chlor lowers your pool's pH, while Cal Hypo raises it. Choose wisely!
Shock and Awe: Granular chlorine is the go-to for "shocking" your pool. It breaks up chloramines—the stuff that makes your pool smell like, well, a pool. Shocking restores your water to its crystal-clear glory.
The Fine Print:
Read the Label: Seriously, do it. Some granular chlorines have added stabilizers or other chemicals. Know what you're putting in your pool.
Don't Mix Types: This is a biggie. Mixing different types of granular chlorine can lead to explosions or flammability issues. Yeah, you read that right—explosions. So, keep 'em separated!
So, the next time your pool needs a pick-me-up, consider granular chlorine. But remember, it's like the espresso shot of pool care—handle with care.
Suggested Best Use-Cases by Type of Commercial Aquatic Facilities
Sodium Hypochlorite (Liquid Chlorine, Bleach)
Large Public Pools: Due to its fast absorption rate, it's ideal for large pools that need quick chlorination.
Water Parks: Great for slides and lazy rivers where water flow is fast and needs quick treatment.
Spas and Hot Tubs: Effective for high-temperature environments.
Calcium Hypochlorite (Cal Hypo)
Hotel Pools: Moderate absorption rate and added calcium make it suitable for smaller, less busy pools.
Gym Pools: Ideal for indoor pools where quick chlorination isn't as critical.
Older Pools: Adds calcium, which can be beneficial for older pools with plaster surfaces.
Stabilized Chlorine (Tri Chlor)
HOA/Residential Complex Pools: Slow-dissolving nature makes it ideal for pools that don't have high bather loads.
Saltwater Pools: Works well as a secondary sanitizer and stabilizer.
ACTION STEPS
Identify Your Current Chlorine Type: Check what you're currently using. Is it the best fit for your pool's needs?
Consult Manufacturer Guidelines: Before switching or mixing types, always consult the guidelines or a pool care professional.
Check Your Feeder: Make sure your automatic feeder is approved by the National Sanitation Foundation and is operational. Manual feeding is a backup, not the main event.
Know Your pH Impact: Different chlorine types affect pH differently. Keep tabs on this to maintain water balance.
Safety First: Store chlorine according to its safety guidelines. Keep it away from other chemicals.
Sanitize, Disinfect, Oxidize: Know what your chlorine type does best and use it accordingly.
Check Your Pool Care Provider: Make sure they're using the automatic feeding equipment as required by Florida regulations.
Keep Alkalinity in Check: Aim to keep your pool's alkalinity between 80-120 ppm.
Conclusion
Knowing your chlorine is the first step to mastering pool care. Whether you're dealing with a busy waterpark or a small HOA pool, the right type of chlorine can make all the difference.
